Sara Berman S/S 2005 Press release
Bonjour Tristesse
Taking inspiration from French Novelist Françoise Saga’s teenage masterpiece ‘Bonjour Tristesse‘(1953) written when the author herself was barely 18-years-old, Sara and Amiee Berman have looked at the three leading characters from this masterpiece of teenage angst for their Spring summer 2005 collection: Cecile, the jaded ingénue who learns about love and loss under the oleanders of the French Riviera; Elsa, her dissolute father’s voluptuous lover, and Anne, her elegant yet controlling godmother, whose tragic death ultimately casts a shadow over the summer.
Cecile: Hippy
It was so hot today, even the proximity of the sea and its incessant rhythm, failed to stir the olive trees that surround the house. I dressed quickly and casually: a tiered gypsy skirt embroidered with sky blue marguerite daisies and a silk wrap top printed with butter coloured sunflowers that had been airing on the balcony, and went down stairs to play cards on the veranda. Naturally, Father never rises before noon, although murmurings from the bedroom window showed that he and Elsa were not asleep. Eventually they emerged, rather shamefacedly, Elsa softly singing to herself as she zipped herself into a coral silk sundress decorated with a bow like a blowsy rose.
Later, as the sun was setting Anne arrived from Paris, I heard the car on the gravel and the brisk clicking of her heels on the flagstones in the hall. As ever, she seemed dressed for business rather than pleasure: an elegant gray funnel neck cotton knit jacket - double breasted with brass buttons, and crisply tailored shorts. Even though her froideur scares me- you can’t but help admire her style.
Elsa: Riviera
Raymond and I didn’t stir until after noon, by which time the heat was oppressive. I was going to wear my knitted silk sundress in stripes of raspberry, yellow ,pink and green, but remembered that I ‘d given it to the maid after an unfortunate incident with a glass of red wine. So, it was a toss up between my teal or my coral silk dresses, the latter winning as Raymond claimed it brings out the highlights in my hair. Cecile glowered at us as we came downstairs - all she seems to do is play cards and stare at the sea, but at least the climate has improved her colouring, - in fact, one could almost say she is almost pretty, although at seventeen, hardly a woman. After lunch we decided to walk along the coast to a small bar which serves locally caught seafood, however Cecile, as usual, had other plans. So, I packed my swimsuit and changed into my cherry print shorts so that I could top up on my tan.
Later that afternoon Raymond and I drove to the station to meet Anne,-Cecile’s godmother, off the train from Paris. I confess that I changed back into my silk dress to create a good impression and was pleased with the result.
Anne: Preppy
I’ve never really been any good at packing, but still I should have realized that this dissolute household could only charitably be described as ‘casual’. Nevertheless I do believe that standards should be maintained, and was secretly rather pleased I brought my gray wrap jacket with the scoop collar and matching A-line skirt. Of course, when I finally arrived nobody came out to greet me. Raymond and his current squeeze- a voluptuous Rita Hayworth look-alike dressed in a very skimpy, yet rather captivating loose silk dress- had driven to the station under the assumption that I was arriving by train and Cecile hardly spoke when she eventually came downstairs, although, I must say, the warm weather suits her, even if her patchwork layer skirt is a bit flamboyant for a teenager.
Fortunately, they had at least remembered to prepare my room, which thankfully overlooks the pinewoods and smells divinely of floor polish and lavender. For dinner, I decide to wear my teal and orange fine gauge silk knit cardigan with matching top and a pair of slate grey cotton twill shorts. However, whatever my choice of attire, something tells me that I’ll need something more than a smart wardrobe this summer.
Colours:
Yellow is glorious-buttered sunflower to mustard.
Greens running from the jewel colours of teal and emerald all the way to apple and ice.
Shades of orange, from tangerine to rust to coral and sorbet.
Slate grey and petrol mixed with black and white.
Pink is candy bright.
Fabrics: Boldly printed silks, wispy chiffons and pure silk knits mix with chunky cotton twills, heavy knits, cotton embroidery and printed cotton voile.
Details: Chunky gold buttons, mix and match prints, frills and ruffles, loose living forms mixed with deceptively simple tailoring.
