Sara Berman press release S/S 07

If there was one woman who managed to grab the attention without saying a word, it was Garbo. The silent movie queen, Greta Garbo had a sensual, magnetic air that Sara Berman has captured in her spring/summer collection. It might be sunny outside, but things are getting darker in the wardrobe department. Jet-black cocktail dresses, smoky trousers and long, thin pencil skirts, set a smoky, demi-couture tone.

Hard-edged tailoring sews this whole collection together. Forget crumpled Rachel Zoe dresses; this is about growing up gracefully, finding your inner sophistication and making men gasp. Sara Berman doesn’t want to wait until sundown to get the glamour out: bows, organza, silks, ties, trims and buttons are a detailed approach to daywear. Who says a beaded cocktail dress can’t be worn for breakfast?

Of course, there is humour too. Candy pink cigarette pants have a sharp edge, but aren’t completely film noir. Pair them with a polka dot blouse or a slouchy cardigan and you’ll breakdown some of Garbo’s moods. Talking of films, the whole process of movie making in America in the Twenties plays a leading part in this Sara Berman love story. Costume designers Travis Banton, Edith Head and Orry Kelly worked with an elegant bygone charm. They made their protagonists look daring, dangerous and deeply attractive. Sara Berman has translated these long-lost qualities into dramatic drapery, extra-long silhouettes and bare backs.

Another mysterious movie star was Marlene Dietrich. She made masculine tailoring ooze with sensuality. Luckily for us the hard work is done, because Sara Berman has created an exclusive Dietrich illustration print as a shortcut to this smoky allure. Spread across wrap day dresses and plunging blouses, this repeat pattern gives simple cotton some old-time elegance.

And where else would these stars holiday, than on the French Riviera. Wide-leg trousers in washed out stripes and fine knit jumpers, will keep out the sea breeze without forfeiting your maritime style. Ok, you might not want to rig the boat, but hiding behind your shades while the butler pours the champers, is reason enough to head out to sea.